Monday, September 10, 2012

Anping/安平

This is gonna be a big mess of photos, folks.  Those of you prone to sensory overload and fainting may want to close this window immediately.  (Or tab, if you are one of those people.  Though I myself do not understand tabs.  They offer no benefits over windows.  None.  And they have some shortcomings that windows do not.  You can disagree if you want, but you are wrong.)

I went to Anping on Saturday with one of my fellow foreign students.  She's from Belgium and is a native Flemish speaker, but like all Europeans from small countries, she speaks pretty much flawless English.
Anping is the are where the Dutch originally settled in Taiwan and set up their colony.  It was an island at the time, and by controlling Anping, the Dutch controlled access to the nice bay behind it, which was key for controlling trade in the area.  The Dutch, ever the able seamen, understood this and put up a fort (called Zeelandia) and encouraged the growth of a small village near the fort.  (Note:  The Dutch did not actually call the island Anping.  They called it Taiyuan, which I think was based on an aboriginal Formosan word.  It's also the origin of the name "Taiwan" for the entire island.  The Anping name for the area came later.)

安平地方に有るオランダ砦のゼーランディアを回りながら、何か長崎が恋しく成った。(安平は現代名だ。オランダ人は「タイユアン」みたいな台湾先住民から習った名前を呼んだ。其のタイユアンが「台湾」の由来だ。)安平は出島と同じく、当時のオランダ貿易帝国の大事な拠点の一つだった。台湾がちょうど日本、中国、東南アジアの小国のど真ん中に有るから、中継貿易にはかなりの価値が有った。

Some of the walls of the Dutch fort still remain, and much of the rest of it has been reconstructed.




日本時代台湾の塩関係の建物だ。現在は博物館に成っている。




 元々の塀がちょっと残っている。Some of the original walls of the fort.


風車!長崎の出島とハウステンバウスを思い出す、、、




Like everything in hot, tropical Taiwan, the wall is covered in plants.  The other day, I was standing around waiting for someone and some vines started growing up my legs.  Fortunately, I was carrying my weed killer spray, so I was able to avoid being leached of too many nutrients.







漢字だから、有る程度読めるかな?頑張って。


"Know what this historical fort needs?  A gaudy looking tower with no elevator so that people can turn it into a steam bath by climbing its 4 stories to get to the top."  It was a pretty nice view though...




 平戸生まれ、日本人のお母さんを持っていた鄭成功の銅像が此の上に有る。鄭さんはオランダ人と闘って、台湾から出した。中国系の人として(お父さんは中国人だった)初めて台湾を支配した人だった。明朝の支援者で、台湾をベースにしてから清朝とも闘った。


This statue is of Zheng Cheng Kung, also known as "Koxinga" in the west.  He is the guy my school is named after.  He was born in Hirado, Nagasaki to a Chinese father and a Japanese mother.  He fought the Dutch and took over Taiwan.  Because he was the first person of Chinese descent to control (part of) Taiwan, he is often viewed as a sort of founding father of Taiwan nowadays.  He was a Ming loyalist, and he used Taiwan as a base from which to fight the Qing Dynasty, which had taken over the Chinese mainland recently.



石獅さんかな。(シーザーのご先祖)



Trees with beards.  We're in the tropics now.



くつろいでいる観光客。暑いさ!座らして呉れん?


This is the building at the top of the fort now.  Obviously a modern reconstruction.



砲台





The view from the fort.



This is a gate in front of a temple near the fort.  There's a lot of historical touristy stuff in the Anping area, and I didn't even see the half of it.



Mrrrowr!


台湾に着いてから、初めて見掛けた野良(?)猫だ。長崎は多かったけど、こっちは野良(?)犬が多い。


 One of the rivers around Anping.  Though much of the former bay to the east of Anping has been filled in and is now part of Tainan City, Anping is still kind of surrounded on four sides by water.




The Banyan House.  This is a building near Fort Zeelandia.  It was built as a trade house and traded hands a couple of times, but at some point it was abandoned and taken over by tropical growth.  Some enterprising person took the overgrown, condemn-worthy house and made it into a tourist attraction.


此れ全部自然に生えて来たよ。何故か観光名物に成った廃墟だけど、やっぱり何か凄いな。








 They have to fix up the building sometimes to keep it from totally disintegrating.  Someone figured out how to avoid messing up the roots.


おねえさんが変な入り口に入る気満々。もしかして、名前はアリスだ。もしかして、向こうに不思議な国が有る。




 It says "Anping".



 台湾人はやっぱり此の天気に慣れている。此の日は日本の真夏みたいに30度で、多分湿気度が99%達している。其れでもこういう体力的な労働をする。


This is the Tait & Co. building.  It was originally a trading house, but it's now a museum about the history of the Anping area, with displays on how various people there--Dutch, Chinese and Formosan Aboriginal--lived.








 古い堤防だ。安平は島だったから、海に因る浸食を防ぐ為の奴だ。


These old seawalls were put up to prevent erosion of the Anping island.










ということで、安平の一部を見せて差し上げた。まだまだ見る処がいっぱい有るけど、もう暑くて暑くて、ばたばたしていた。又今度も行こうと。
There's still a lot more to see in Anping, but I got a late start, and it's hard to walk around for hours and hours in this heat anyway.  I'll probably be posting more photos from this area at some point in the future.

Friday, September 7, 2012

此れ何でしょう? Can you guess what this building is?





日本人の友達は多分此れを見て、「ラブホテル」を当てて見ただろう。実はラブホテルじゃなくて、移民署だ。マジで。

俺は昨日、移民署への用事が有って、もう一人の留学生と一緒に行って来た。二人で行って、台南のタクシー費が非常に安いから、タクシーで行く事にした。多分タクシーじゃなかったら見つからなかったと思う。だって、全然政府のビルに見えないからさぁ。

此の建物は元々レストランだったと聞いた。別に、歴史的な物じゃない。偽物だ。西洋風を飾っているだけだ。しかも、中に入ったら、地味に普通な市役所みたいな感じに成っている。中の見た目が外と同じスタイルだけど、順番の数字が印刷されている紙を出している器械も有るし、申請書を普通に書いている人があっちこっち座っている。何か、其の矛盾性が凄く気に入った。

又、待っている間に、窓の隣りに座って、気付いたら、外の女性が写真を撮っていた。勿論、俺が目的じゃなかった。建物が。でも、俺は人生初めて市役所の様な建物に待ちながら、観光客に写真が撮られた。ちょっとウケる。

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"Well, this must be one of Tainan's many historic buildings, some of which date back to the Dutch colonial period and are therefore done in a sort of western style."

Wrong.

But maybe you figured that out.  Something's fishy about this building.  Yeah, it looks kind of western, but like a movie prop or something.  I don't think there's any architectural style in the history of western architecture that this fits into, unless there's a name for those suburban houses you see sometimes that have lots of faux-marble statues on the front lawn.

From what I heard, this building used to be a restaurant.  Interestingly enough, it's now the Tainan City Immigration Office.  No, really.  I don't know how much credit I have with people who know me--perhaps almost none--but whatever I do have I will place it all on the table now.  This really is a city government building.  I am not lying.

Actually, when you go inside the fun doesn't stop.  On the one hand, they have one of those ticket machines with the numbers, where you take a number and they call it and you go to the desk with the digital display that has your number above it.  They have the row of desks with people in government uniforms filling out papers.  But the decor inside still has this kind of movie-set, European mansion feel to it.

Wouldn't going to the DMV be more fun if it looked like this?  I might just go every day.

Thursday, September 6, 2012


Well, I'm here.

I got to Tainan yesterday, on the 5th.  I came in to Taiwan through Taoyuan Airport.  This is the main international airport on the island, and it's up near Taipei.  I could have come in through Kaohsiung, which is in the south right near where I am living, but there were fewer options for flights, and I got a good deal on my flight into Taoyuan.

Secretly, though, I was happy about coming into Taoyuan.  It gave me the chance to take the Taiwan High Speed Rail (TSHR).

The TSHR is very new.  They only just finished it in 2006 or so, I believe.  I remember because it was my first or second year living in Nagasaki, and I and a couple teacher friends took a short trip to Taiwan.  We were actually there on the opening day of the TSHR, though we didn't ride it because we weren't going that way.

The TSHR is fast.  It's based on Japanese Shinkansen technology I believe, though I think there are also elements from the French high-speed rail, and maybe some other countries too.  It sounds like the opening to a joke, right?

"So a Taiwanese guy, a Japanese guy, and a French guy try to start a railway together..."

The trains were running on the left side, even though people drive on the right in Taiwan, so I assume this must be Japanese influence.

I took the video above from the train window, and I thought it was cool how every time we went through a tunnel, the image went dark, and then the seats across the aisle from me became visible until we left the tunnel again.

I know, I know.  Train videos.  Is there anything more nerdy?  But hey, fellow Americans, you might as well enjoy this video because I know you won't be enjoying this view in real life.  (Reminder:  Acela's average speed is a whopping 70 mph.  "High Speed".  Right.)

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いよいよ、台湾に着いた!

昨日、5日台湾の桃園空港に着いて、台南に来た。高雄にも国際空港が有るけど、桃園空港の方が選択が多くて、結局桃園にした。

本当は桃園にして嬉しかった。なぜならば、高速鉄道(高鉄)に乗るチャンスに成ったから!台湾の高鉄はわりと最近出来た。多分2006年の頃。(調べる気がない。)ちょうど其の頃、俺は長崎に住んでいた。教師の友達と4人で台湾に行って来た。なんか、俺達が台湾に居た時は高鉄の開業日だったらしい。でも、南西方に行くつもりは無かったから、乗らなかったのだ。

実は、高鉄は日本の新幹線の技術を使用しているらしい。百パーじゃないと聞いた。日本のとフランスのともしかして他の国の技術も含まれていると聞いた。台湾は右側通行なのに、高鉄は左側通行だ。最初の頃、高鉄は日本人の運転手さんを採用して、運転の仕方を教えて貰ったとも聞いた。

以上、電車で撮った動画をアップした。電車の動画だから、最悪にオタク臭いかもしれないけど、トンネルに入る時の反射が兎に角面白いと思います。向こう側の人達がいきなりトンネルの中に現れる!電車の外で乗るのかい!?

Saturday, September 1, 2012

Staten Island? Or Formosa?

So, I'm heading off to Taiwan in just a couple of days, and I decided that I needed to prepare myself.  I had a conversation with a friend of mine yesterday, and she said something that gave me an idea.  "Staten Island kind of looks like Taiwan, doesn't it?"


Yeah, it kind of does, doesn't it?  Maybe you have to squint a bit, I don't know.
So what I thought was, why not take a trip to Staten Island to get an idea of what Taiwan will be like?  It makes sense right.
I took the subway down to South Ferry and got on the Staten Island Ferry.

 Here we are pulling up to the unknown wilds of Staten Island.  Note the tension in the shoulders of my fellow ferry-riders.  None of us really know what to expect when we land.
Once I'm on the island, I get on the "Staten Island Railroad".  It's a strange little railroad with modified subway cars, perhaps brought over to the island from NYC in the 1950's, kind of like the US cars in Cuba.
The view below is pretty much what one sees from the railroad the whole way when one isn't submerged in an ugly trench.  There are a couple of places where it's at road level, and even some where it's elevated, but for much of the route it's about 10 feet below the ground level of the surrounding area.  This is not conducive to photo-taking.
 Here's the train at the final station, Tottenville.  This is it.  This is the end of NYC.


 There's nothing here.  Nothing.
 The station house is cute, though I think mostly unused.  The SI Railroad doesn't actually have any tolls aside from when you get on OR off at the ferry terminal.  They just don't even bother charging anyone else.
 Seriously, it's the end of everything.

 So let's get out of here.
 Oh, that's a neat structure.


 Here's the grass again.



 Finally I got back to the ferry and headed back to civilization.  On the way, I got some nice views of Governor's Island.


 Poor souls boarding the ferry to make the trip I just made.  Good luck!