在我本來的計畫下，我應該禮拜二過去南竿搭飛機回福爾摩沙島，但是當天天氣惡化了船都沒有開。因為沒辦法過南竿去所以我得到了多一天的休息！謝謝風雨大神！
I originally was supposed to be in Matsu from Saturday morning (when the Taimaru ship arrived in Dongyin) until the next Tuesday, when I would head back to Formosa by plane. However, the weather took a turn for the worse, and the waves were so big on Tuesday that all the inter-island boats got cancelled and I was stuck on Dongju for all of Tuesday. Heavens! Forced to take an extra day of vacation! Oh the humanity!
元々この旅は火曜日で終わるつもりだったが、火曜日になったら風が強くて波が大きくて船が出らんくなってしまった。休みが1日多くなったので、別によかった。
我住在叫做
船老大的民宿。我可推薦這座民宿。不但房間不錯，租給我的機車很新，他們準備的菜也非常好吃。他們利用島嶼的海鮮做菜。就算不住這裡，你還是應該去吃晚飯。下面的照片是船老大後面。
Here's the view from the balcony of the room I was staying in. I stayed at
Chuan Lao Da, one of the more successful hotels on the island. They deserve their success. The rooms were nice, the scooter they rented me was nice and new, and--most importantly--the food was great. Every day there was fresh seafood, and they were very clever in preparing it. Even if you don't stay there when you're in Dongju, see if you can get dinner there at least. It's well worth it. It's a family-run hotel, and they were all very friendly and helpful as well.
宿のバルコニーから撮った写真。私は
船老大という民宿に泊まった。めっちゃおすすめ！部屋もよかったし、借りたバイクも新しかった。でも何よりも料理がうまかった。新鮮な島の海鮮が毎日食べれた！
I saw this bird in a tree nearby.
Fish at the local shopping arcade in the main town of Daping
大坪村のアーケード
在大坪村
While the waves were big, and the boats all cancelled, it was not actually raining at the time, so I headed out to do some hiking. There aren't any major trails on Dongju (it's not that big an island after all) but there's a nice one on the hills on the east side of the island. (The Huanshan Budao 環山步道) It starts near this cemetery.
風が強かったが、雨はなかった。ハイキングをすることにした。東莒の規模が小さいので、大したハイキング道はないが、崖のすごいところが東海岸の北部にある。「環山歩道」という道。入り口辺りに墓地があった。
雖然波浪很大船沒開，可是沒在下雨。我去東莒東部的環山步道。入口旁有墓地。東莒規模很小所以步道也不長，但峭壁好厲害。
The cliffs are incredible.
四月の馬祖はまだまあまあ寒い日もある。この日は１２度ぐらいしかなかった。（ちなみに、台南はその時期もう２８度とかに達していた。）宿のオーナーさんからセーターを借りて出かけた。山をちょっと登って振り返って見たら、軍人達は訓練していた。寒そう！
These poor guys were out doing training exercises or something. It was pretty chilly too. It was only in the low 50's probably on this day. I had to borrow a sweater from the hotel to even think of going out. I knew that Matsu was cooler than the rest of Taiwan, but I was still unprepared for how cool it could get in early April.
這天蠻冷。（可能十二度而已）雖然已經四月，但馬祖比台灣別的地方更冷。因為我準備不好所以民宿的老班接給我毛線衣我才能出去玩。再冷軍人還得出去訓練。
The lighthouse again
灯台が見えてきた。
燈塔看到一半
Watch out for strong winds, especially if you got out fishing in your underwear.
風の注意より気になるのは魚釣りしているふんどし男のマーク。
風這麼強，為何這個人只穿內褲出去釣魚？
They built this strange platform out at one end of the trail. I guess it beats having people walk out onto unstable rocks to get a nice view and falling to their deaths.
トレールの終わりにこの展望台があった。周りの雰囲気と合っていないが、景色がよく見える。
360觀景台。人工東西有一點不適合這邊的風景。
Yet more military structures
軍基地
據點發現！
Just as I got down from the path it started to rain. These goats knew what to do.
雨宿りしているヤギ
忽然雨下起來了。山羊們在這裡躲身。
Because the path is near the island's visitor center, I went there to wait out the rain. While I was there I got to watch a video introducing Dongju and Xiju. I didn't even know that there was a video, but the guy
sitting around working at the center suggested it. He was probably bored and glad for the chance to do something. While I'm not entirely sure, my travel partner and I may have been the only tourists on the island that day since there were no boats and it was the day after a four-day weekend, meaning everyone else had probably headed back the day before, before the boats all got cancelled. Do the people at the tourist information center a favor and stop by if you ever visit the island at an off-peak time. They could probably use the excitement.
私も雨宿りした。ヤギと一緒にじゃなくて、近くにあったインフォメーションセンターで。そこの従業員は退屈しそうだった。恐らくこの日は私と一緒に来た人、私達二人しか観光客はいなかったかもしれない。（連休の翌日だったから）莒光を紹介するビデオを見せてもらった。
我也躲身，但是不是在水管理，我進去遊客服務中心。服務員幫我看一片介紹莒光的電影。這天因為連假的隔天所以有可能除了我和跟我一起旅行的一個人以外，什麼遊客都沒有。服務員看起來很無聊。
At this point, I'd seen just about every corner of Dongju, so the photos below are kind of a repeat. I'm standing just above Fuzheng, under the lighthouse, looking down.
もう一回灯台に行った。
雨停了我就再去看燈塔。
Xiniu Island, connected to Dongju now while the waters are low.
犀牛島
This is actually maybe the best shot I took of the lighthouse of all of the many photos I took of it.
There was this fancy tunnel entrance nearby.
灯台の近くにあったトンネル
附近看到這條坑道。
"There is no enemy on earth who cannot be defeated."
「世の中に倒せない敵なんていない」
"There is no job on earth that cannot be completed."
「世の中に完了できない仕事なんてない」
I want to show you how strong the winds were. You see this glass plane? Just the previous day it was still on top of the bricks there. There's a tunnel below, so the glass is there to stop morons from falling down the hole. I'm pretty sure the glass was attached, not just resting on top of the bricks, and yet here it is blown away onto the grass.
風によってこのガラスが飛ばされた！元々はレンガの上にあった。レンガはトンネルへの入り口なので、人が落ちない様にガラスを被している。
風這麼強！太跨張了！這張玻璃昨天還是在紅磚上！（是坑道的進口，所以是為了不讓人跌進去設備的。）
I heard a story (I wasn't clear if this was a sarcastic joke, or actually the real deal) that the road here, the Fuxing Road, was built this way because they couldn't afford to bring enough concrete to the island to pave it all the way across, so they filled in the middle with rocks. Regardless, it's actually a nice effect and makes the road prettier really.
島の西側にある復興路は真ん中が石畳だから綺麗。でも聞いた話（本当かどうか分からない）によると、コンクリートの材料は島に運ぶのが困難でお金かかりすぎだからこうしたって。
有的島民跟我說（我不知道是否正確）因為材料太貴不夠，所以為了省錢這條的中心是這樣石板路。但是這樣其實比較漂亮。（復興路）
Part way along Fuxing Road, there was this lookout point that gave a head-on view of Xiniu Island. You can see the low strip of land connecting it to Dongju quite well in this photo.
復興路からよく犀牛島が良く見える。
在復興路旁的涼亭。犀牛島看得清楚。
The island in the distance is Xiju.
彼方には西莒島がある。
Why did I take this strangely angled photo?
這一張怎麼了？我也不知道。
Looking back at Fuzheng and the lighthouse from Fuxing Road.
在復興路上看燈塔
A tiger design at an abandoned base.
基地にあった虎
據點的老虎
This appeared to be some sort of plaque, though I couldn't read anything clearly.
石碑っぽい。以前は時があっただろう。
好像以前有字，但看不清楚。
Now I'm back at Meng'ao harbor where the boats come into the island.
猛奥港に戻ってきた。
再到了猛奧港
While I was looking at this temple, a helicopter came in low and landed nearby. (There's a small airport near here.) It turns out that on days when the boats are cancelled, they run a helicopter service between Dongju, Xiju and Nangan (the main island in Matsu). A woman actually got off of the helicopter and walked by, so I asked her what she had been doing that required getting on a helicopter. "Just some shopping" was her nonchalant answer. That's right, she got on a helicopter to do some shopping! Island life!
ちょうどこの時島の飛行場にヘリが着いて来た。降りて来た女性に声をかけてみたら、「買い物してきた」って。かっこういい！買い物をヘリでするのか！？島生活らしい。莒光は船が出ないとヘリを飛ばすそうだ。そこでは普通だ。
剛好這時候直升機到了這邊的機場。有人下機來了。我問她怎麼了，她說「我去西莒買東西」。為了買東西要搭直昇機嗎！？好酷！在莒光好像是很普通的事。船一不開就開直升機。
That's pretty much it for Dongju. The boats were running again the next day, so I got on the first one of the morning and headed to Nangan to get a plane back to the Formosan mainland. I had a couple hours to kill in Nangan, so I'll post some photos of there next time.
東莒差不多結束了。隔天我搭船去南竿等飛機。因為有幾個小時所以我也看南竿一下。下次呢！
翌日は南竿に戻って飛行機を乗って帰った。でも南竿にもちょっと時間があったので、バイクでちょっと回ってみた。次回はその写真を。
Ha ha! "the guy (sitting around) working at the center"
ReplyDelete