After leaving Ou Island, we circled around a bunch of Nanjo's many historic sites. Southern Okinawa is, while hilly, not as mountainous as the northern part of the island, so it's where most of the population is concentrated. This is true going back hundreds of years, so the southern part of the island is filled with castle ruins and other sites of historic interest.
奥武島を出て南城市を回ってみた。沖縄南部は昔から人口密度が高い地域で、遺跡が非常に多い。短期間沖縄に滞在して歴史的な場所をたくさん訪れたいと思えば、南部は一番それに適している。
離開了奧武島之後，我們就去南看看很多城市的古跡。南城市在沖繩南部。由於南部向來比較人口密度高，因而古跡也非常多。
First some shots from on top of a hill.
南城市役所の近くの風景だ。
Some sort of structure built into the cliff face, not far from the Nanjo City Office, in the former town of Tamagusuku. It was not properly labeled with a plaque, so I don't know what it is. Get to work, Nanjo.
これは何か分からない。看板は全然なかった。
An impressive looking grave on a raised platform nearby. This was unlabeled as well, but it may not be of any historic interest. Families in Okinawa own huge graves like this, so this may just be some local family's grave.
下のお墓はめっちゃ凄い何かに見えるけど、看板も何もなかったので、もしかして普通な一般家庭のお墓に過ぎないかも。沖縄のお墓は本島にでかいから。
這裡看起來古跡，但是因為沒有看板，所以我認為應該只是一般人的墳墓而已。沖繩的墳墓非常大。（但是也許臺灣人覺得沒有特別大。因為臺灣鄉下的墳墓也一樣大。）
A small place for leaving incense and praying. Okinawa, especially the south, is littered with small sacred spaces like this. It's easy to overlook them because they are often unmarked and very inconspicuous. Some people argue that ancient Japanese Shinto may have been very similar, and that it was only after the introduction of Buddhism to Japan that the Japanese started building shrines and other structures in the locations of the sacred areas. The argument goes that since Buddhism was introduced to the Ryukyus much later, and never spread to the common people as much as in Japan, this influence is not seen in the native Ryukyuan religion, and sacred areas remain to this day mostly unadorned. The only problem with this argument is that it ignores that many of the castle/forts on hillsides in Okinawa also contain sacred areas, and it may have been that the structures were originally not built as defensive structures, but as sacred structures, so while it's true that there are many un-built-up sacred places like the one in the photo below, it's perhaps inaccurate to say that all Okinawan sacred spaces are like that.
下の写真の様な御嶽（うたき）はいっぱいある。基本的ここみたいに何も建物はない。あるのは線香を置く石のみ。日本の神道も昔こう言う感じなのではなかったかと強調する人もいる。仏教の影響によって日本人が神聖な場所に神社を建てる様になったという仮説だ。仏教がより遅く入ってきた沖縄にはその本来的な神道が残っているというわけだ。まあ、どうかなと思う。たしかこんな建物とか何もない聖地がいっぱいある、でもグスク（つまり、建物）の中に入っている聖地もいっぱいあるので、琉球人は聖地に建物を全く建てなかったわけでもない。また、琉球に昔の純粋な日本の文化が残っているという理論はいつも凄く怪しく聞こえる。琉球は琉球だ。日本と違う道を歩んで来た。あるところは日本と凄くかぶる（姉妹文化圏みたいな感じだからね）でも琉球も色んな国の影響を受けて、自分の成り行きを果たしてきた。日本の原型版とまとめたら、それは琉球の独特な文化を否定するということにもなると思う。けっこう無理矢理の様な気がする。
這裡是一個聖地。在沖繩這樣很小的聖地非常多。平常像這裡一樣一所房子都沒有。看到焚香的石頭才知道這裡是聖地。
This is the grave site for the sixth King of the first Sho Dynasty, Sho Taikyu. Ryukyu had two dynasties, both named "Sho". The first dynasty was the one that united the island, but it only lasted through six kings before it was overthrown and the second Sho dynasty started. The second one lasted much longer, from around 1470 until around 1879 when Ryukyu was annexed as a prefecture of Japan. Ryukyu was actually one of the most stable, long-lived states in pre-modern East Asia.
下の写真は第一尚朝の六人目の国王、尚泰久のお墓だ。第一尚朝はあまり長く続かなかったが、そのすぐ後、1470年から、1879年の明治政府によっての合併まで琉球王国は第二尚朝の元で続いた。近代東アジアの中に、かなり安定した国だった。（明治時代に琉球王国は日本に合併されて無くなった後、廃藩置県の最後の段階で、数年間「琉球藩」として続いて、他の藩より遅れて抹消された。）
這裡是第一尚朝第六個國王的墳墓。叫名尚泰久。第一尚朝只有六個國王，可是第二個從1470年到1879年繼續了。在東亞是繼續很久的國家。
We went to Tamagusuku castle next. I'd been here before, but not in a long time. The castle itself is mostly nonexistent except for some of the walls, but there is still an impressive arch left, and it's on a hill with a great view of the area.
A bird:
次に玉城の城跡を見に行った。前にも行ったことがあるが、久しぶりだった。最近改善するための工事が進んでいるみたいだ。玉城は丘の上にあって、本島に風景が素晴らしい。
也去玉城遺址。除了城牆以外差不多都壞掉了，但是大門還蠻好，城堡在山上所以風景很漂亮。
The entrance to the castle.
大門
Another sacred space, with a stone for burning incense on.
ここも聖地だ。線香置き場ちゃんと設置されている。
這裡也是聖地
Next we drove into the main town area of Tamagusuku Hyakuna. There was an old shrine of sorts there.
玉城百名に行って、小さな神社を見付けた。
這是在叫玉城百名的地方。有一所小小的寺廟。
The building is obviously new.
建物が新しいが。
寺廟的建築很新。
A Shisa statue. It's a little hard to tell this is its face because I took the photo from too low down.
これもシーサーだ。
Our next stop was Ukinju Hainju. This is the spot where rice was originally planted by Amamikyo, the main goddess of Ryukyu mythology. This spot is one of the stops in the Agariumaai, a sacred procession that the Ryukyu king used to do on a regular basis. It involves going around the southern part of the island and visiting a number of sacred places on the way. The practice of doing the Agariumaai later spread to normal people and some people still do it to this day.
次、あがりうまあい（「東回り」という元々国王が行った巡礼の名前だ）の一カ所のうきんじゅはいんじゅ（受水走水）に行ってみた。ここは沖縄で米の発祥地とされている。下の看板に詳しく書いているから見てね！
傳說這個地方，叫做「受水走水」是叫名「阿摩美久」的女神種沖繩最早的米。
It doesn't look like much, but this is where rice cultivation supposedly started in Okinawa.
ここだ。そんなに大したところに見えないが、ここも聖地の一つだ。
就是這裡。
Our next stop was Hamagawa Utaki. There is a cave here, and it is the spot where Amamikyo lived temporarily upon first coming to Okinawa.
近くにある浜川御嶽にも行った。にらいかないという神様の島から渡って来たあまみきょという女神がここに仮住まいしたと。これも、下の詳しい説明見てね！
濱川御嶽是阿摩美久剛來沖繩時候最初住的地方。
Next we go down to the beach...
そして浜に降りてみて、、、
去海邊看一看、、、
なんか、海から石が出ているのじゃない？
Look at that rock sticking up out of the water.
在海裡那塊石頭算是阿摩美久來沖繩，最初踏的地方。原本，阿摩美久出自ㄋㄧㄌㄞㄎㄚㄋㄞ（有時候：ㄍㄧㄌㄞㄎㄚㄋㄞ）。這座算在海上離沖繩很遠的地方，是神的島嶼。
This rock is supposedly the first place where Amamikyo set foot before landing on Okinawa island proper. It's called "Yaharazukasa". It also points in the direction of Nirai/Girai Kanai, the island of the gods, across the sea where Amamikyo came from.
これは上の看板が言った「やはらつかさ」という、あまみきょが初めて足を降ろした所だ。
As you can see, southern Okinawa really is covered in historic places like this. Keep in mind, we barely went anywhere on this day. There are still a million other castle ruins and sacred places where we still could have gone if we had had more time. If you want to know about Okinawan history, religion and culture, the southern part of the island is the best place to start.
沖繩南部不錯吧？要是喜歡古跡，就是沖繩裡最有趣的地方。
沖縄の南部は本島に歴史マニアックにはたまらない！最高に面白い！
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